Reconnecting right and left banks through tourism development

Through the series of connectivity questions, it was also interesting to learn of the historical disconnect between the two banks of the river. The new pedestrian bridge Ponte Pedro e Inês is attractive for people to cross, in addition to pedestrian and vehicle crossing already possible on Ponte Rainha Santa Clara. But one of the stakeholders I interviewed noted that crossing the bridge may be “more fun than functional.” Project Parque Verde on the left bank does look somewhat neglected, and improvements on the left bank were not done to the same extent as on the right bank.

One stakeholder pointed out that Parque Verde on the other side feels like an afterthought. The discrepancy in political, economic, and social resources is something left bank residents have lived with for a long time – decades? centuries? Coimbra has always revolved around the university, one of the oldest in Europe, on the right bank. The larger sized population on the right bank also “tend to be wealthier, more educated, more prioritized” than the smaller number on the left bank. Political power and influence weigh in more on the right bank than the left.

As I crossed the pedestrian bridge Ponte Pedonal Pedro e Inês, I noticed generally fewer visitors, fewer equipment like benches, shades, and programmed activities on "the other side". Granted, it was midday; the sun was ablaze and most people probably at work. Bar do Mondego, the only food and beverage outfit this side of the river, was closed. A canoeing and kayaking center was open. Three boys had come for a swim in the canal. The stage that hosts the annual students’ festival was empty. Walking on the left bank got unbearably hot without trees and shade structures. Lacking any indicator signposts, I walked halfway along the perimeter of the park – under the hot sun – to find the exit.  The photos below show the lack of shade and facilities on the left bank.

Convento Santa Clara-a-Velha, the old convent abandoned because of siltation from centuries of floods, was still under renovation and closed to the public. I headed to Convento São Francisco for a ceramic exhibition. The old church-turned-exhibition space was empty except for me and two elderly French couples. The one staff member was chatting on MSN Messenger on her laptop. The exhibit took half an hour and I continued up to the new convent further uphill. Inside its cathedral, the cavernous grandeur accentuated the few visitors. The beautiful cloisters behind the cathedral were empty; I was the only visitor.

Convento Santa Clara-a-Velha under renovation

What I experienced on the left bank was perhaps a sign of the challenges of tourism development in Coimbra. Despite the renewed image that the Polis project has brought to the city, all of the stakeholders I interviewed were skeptical that the renewed image will attract more tourism.

The same stakeholder I spoke to suggested tourism development as a way to better connect the two sides of the river. Many of the touristic places on the other side could benefit from a conscious effort to connect the two banks, creating a more pleasant walking experience. In effect, such a tourism development plan would develop the axis perpendicular to the river, connecting existing green open spaces on the right bank such as Parque Santa Cruz and the Botanical Gardens, and the tourism destinations on the left bank, such as the convents and exhibition center. She called this a "Polis II" of sorts, which could further add value to the large investment on Parque Verde, while bringing benefits to the historical center and other monuments of note.

Comprehensive tourism planning would also consider the type of tourism and points of interest that Coimbra has to offer, and the services the city needs to offer to cater to the targeted clientele. One interviewee suggested developing tourism for Japanese and Chinese audiences, telling the story of exploration by Vasco de Gama and other Portuguese discoverers. The museums in the Alta area, Museum of Science, Museum of Archeology, and Museum Machado de Castro could also benefit from improved tourism programming, such as a tri-museum pass.

However, developing tourism also has its own set of challenges.  One stakeholder alluded to the vicious cycle of tourism in which Coimbra finds itself. There were few good hotels in Coimbra, but the small number of tourists made it difficult to justify improvements to existing hotels or building more hotels. The hotel owners I spoke to was surprised I was staying in Coimbra for a week; most tourists stay a night, before moving on to other points of interests just outside of Coimbra, like Conimbriga, Fatima, and the mountains up the Mondego valley.